Monday, February 13, 2012

How do I prune overgrown fruit trees?

We've just purchased a house with several fruit trees in the back yard.

We LOVE the trees, but they are really overgrown, as the elderly man living there cannot care for them.



There are 2 pear trees, 1 peach tree, 1 plum tree, and 1 wild berry tree... the plum tree is REALLY overgrown.



I've been told if you prune them down all at once it will kill them... True?



How can I make these trees a managable size without killing them?

When is the best time to prune, and how?

(We take posession of the house in September)

Thanks a lot!

How do I prune overgrown fruit trees?
Years ago a friend bought an old peach and apple orchard in Virginia that hadn't been touched in 15yrs. We contacted the County Agent and he put us in touch with a retired orchardist. First he dictated what trees were beyond help and needed to be replaced. Then began a four year remedial pruning regime. After the first first year he told us which trees were no longer "in fashion" and needed to be "top worked", a form of grafting that totally changes the fruit to a more productive or popular variety. September is a good time to get started or as soon as the leaves drop. Read as much as you can to get a good vocabulary on the subject and find your own mentor if possible. Remedial pruning is a slow process, never remove more than 20-25% of the branches in any year. Plums are an exception to the rules and can be pruned 30-40% in a year but don't be suprised if it dies, plums are relatively short lived and yours could be at the end of its life. RScott
Reply:Be blessed in your new home and thankfull you take it in Fall.

The task afore you is large, however, manageable given the time you move in.



With the move you will have so many things to do. Let the trees go until mid-October. Later is even better!!. Plan on buying a 10-10-10 with mineral fertilizer (granular) to spread at the outer edges of the tree in November.



Begin by removing any and or limbs that are six foot from the

surface. You will also want to remove both any dead growth and thin the tree. Thin the tree by removing stems or limbs that touch each other, or, alternate limb removal directionally.

In this case, you have already removed the lower limbs, you have also removed one of the limbs/stems that touched. Now you need to move North and South and remove any limb that is overgrowing the lower limbs. Go East and West and do the same. Cut the top limbs and sprouts down by a minimum of one foot up to three foot.



This is severe pruning and is best done by a pro, however, you can do it. You will need hand pruner, hand pruning saw, and a small power saw. Use a ladder (tied to the tree) for any efforts above your waist level. Take this time to shape the trees for effect you want and forget about the fruiting.



The combination of your severe pruning and the fertilizer will bring back the trees at spring in full bloom if done in Nov. I would purchase a Dormant Oil Spray for application in the spring and late summer. Fertilize again after the flower buds have dropped.



Clear the base of the trees by removing the turf from the base to four inches beyond the fall/dripline of the tree. You can use round-up type products, however, I would suggest you use a Preen based compound. To reduce insects and fungi use a Shreeded Cedar Mulch at a level of two to three inches.



The severe pruning will enliven the trees when done after the fruit drop. The Mulching will allow for the fertilizer you apply to be directed to the feeding roots of the tree. The Preen will keep the weeds from growing through the soil and mulch. The added air and the application of the Dormant Oil will combat insect and other damage. Good Luck.
Reply:I have found local libraries to have a wealth of good books on native plants pruning etc and complete with times for the zone you are in and illustrations on how to. I grew up in orchards, we pruned in the late fall as the foliage was falling, grafted in the spring. If you remove large branches I would use a pruning sealer, some trees are just waiting for an entrance for a borer. The plum may just croak on you, I remember looking out at a beauty in my yard--two days later, pffftt for no apparent reason. Good luck with your little patch.
Reply:I would call CBC on Monday when Ontario Today is on; Ed Lawrence is their gardening guru and he has the phone-in every Monday. Ontario Today is on from noon - 2 pm, I believe, and the phone-in portion is from 12:30 - 1:30. He is amazing. :) The phone number for the show is 888-817-8995.
Reply:fruit trees are easy! prune anything that grows upwards(heartwood) andshape the remaining horizontal limbs(fruitwood) into a mushroom shape. Then selectively remove the interior suckers to get light to the trunk. Be careful not to prune more than 30% of the diciduous(leafy) growth as this can be dangerous to the trees health. They require yearly maintainance and that new growth gets pruned off every year to maintain shape and size. Good Luck!!!
Reply:any branches that are crossing, cut one out now. Then after they fruit you can do this some more. You don't want to do a real harsh pruning until winter. But they can handle a little all through the year.
Reply:Its great that you are asking this question and it would take too much space for me to write it all down but you can go to your local county extension office (look in phone book in the state,city and county section under the name of your county) and see the master gardener. They can give you an illustrated diagram on how to trim fruit trees of different types and they can tell you the best time of year for each tree. If your county extension office is too far from your home you can call them and they will usually mail you literature for just the mailing cost. Hope this helps.


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